The Corona Gorda Crush (the last of the line-up so no more struggling to get a better name) – Juan Lopez Seleccion No 1 (UTC May 19) – Pol Roger Blanc des Blancs 2012

Another, indeed the final corona gorda in our mini line-up and another cigar that smoked very well. A fine example. 

The Juan Lopez Seleccion No 1 is the same size as our previous CG (not surprisingly), with a ring gauge of 46 and length of 143 mm. Again, may the heavens resonate with the trumpets of glory for such sizes. Again, a slide lid box of 25. 

Mine was perhaps in not quite the same condition as the previous CG, with one leaf doing its best to unravel, but it managed to hold together for our purposes. A nice earthy brown colour with hints of russet. Looked good. Firm with a perfect draw. 

Started beautifully with peanut and caramel notes. Quite sweet. A hint of stonefruit moved in. A really impressive opening, it just needed to maintain that for a stellar smoke. And the good news is that it did just that. Bread, nuts and toast joined the fun and it became quite chocolatey in spots. Quite complex and with lovely evolution throughout. A box of these in the humidor for the next ten years will really reward. Good dense smoke throughout. If one wanted to be really picky, then perhaps the flavours were just a smidge more muted in the second half than initially, but this was minor. For me, again, a 92. 

I would think that this has a little more upside ahead of it than the Hoyo Epi 1 has, but others may feel differently. 

Again with the Pol. As mentioned, I had Pol samples and in isolation, no chance of sharing them. So after the proper tasting, I matched bottles with cigars (hey, better than making them into stock). 

Pol Roger is a House that produces richly flavoured champagnes, not quite the power one sees with Krug or Bollinger. They are always finely balanced, offering excellent length, and are champagnes that can age amazingly well. A well-stored bottle of an older Pol Roger vintage is one of the world’s great wine experiences. These wines are sheer class. 

Pol Roger is largely a Pinot Noir house and yet it produces one of the greatest blanc des blancs from all Champagne. The Non-Vintage is exemplary; the Vintage is almost always among the best from the year; the Rosé is always solid, if not spectacular; the Blanc de Blancs, as mentioned, is one of the great wines of that style from the entire region; and finally, the great “Sir Winston Churchill” is a contender for one of the best of all prestige releases. 

As I have mentioned elsewhere, it was the wonderful 1975 Pol Roger that first ignited my love of great champagne (it had the benefit of reasonably extensive ageing before I came to it). The 1976 gets lots of plaudits as well, but I have always preferred the '75, not just from Pol Roger but across the board. Vintage Pol Roger from 1982 and 1985 (a small but stunning vintage) were fabulous; 1988, 1990, and 1996 were all superstars. The great vintages of this century have been 2002, 2008, and now 2012; 2004 follows by a whisker. 

The 2002 Pol Roger was a champagne that still stands out for me. Aside from being an amazing bargain – pretty sure it was around AUD$80 when released – it was of such stellar quality that I have no doubt that many other houses would have been proud to exhibit a wine of that brilliant quality as their flagship. For Pol, 2004 and especially 2008 came close but, for me, the ’02 remained undefeated. Can the ’12 knock it off its perch? 

2012 is the next great vintage of the century after 2008 – now we will have to wait for the champagnes from 2018 for a challenger, although there will be plenty of fine bottles released in the interim. I think 2015 might surprise. 

As a generalization, 2008 was a classic year of elegance, refinement, finesse, vibrant acidity, laser-like focus, and great length. These are wines that will age for many years. For me, this is a style I absolutely adore. It is the closest thing I have seen to the superlative 1988 vintage. 

2012 is much more exuberant, richer, riper, more forward, and open. It offers a decadence that is impossible not to love. These are wines that will also age well for many years, though perhaps not quite as long as the best from 2008. 

While each vintage is, of course, unique, there are some similarities with 2002, though many of the Champenois consider it to have surpassed that very fine year. There have also been comparisons made with both 1990 and 1996. 

Whether one opts for 2008 or 2012 really comes down to which style you prefer. Audrey Hepburn or Marilyn Monroe. Nothing wrong with loving both. Put as much of both vintages in your cellar as you can afford. 

The conditions in 2012 are considered to have best suited Pinot Noir rather than Chardonnay. Pinot had early issues with low yields as a result of frost and some hail (especially in the Aube, although Pol Roger also suffered hail damage in April) as well as some disease (notably mildew early in the season). An inauspicious start, but things got very much better. 

The tradeoff for the seriously reduced yields suffered by Pinot Noir was excellent concentration, providing that hedonism, exuberance and opulence that seems to be the hallmark of the vintage. Some have claimed that the Pinot Noir is the best since 1952. 

This does not mean that Blanc des Blancs champagnes won’t also drink beautifully, but makers may need extra care with this style. Pol Roger’s Blanc de Blancs (once known as Blancs de Chardonnay) is evidence of how good they can be. Chardonnay did not suffer quite the same extensive reduction in volume as Pinot Noir. 

The Pol Roger Blanc des Blancs 2012 is a brilliant wine (it always is). Seven grams dosage, the grapes are sourced from some of the finest Grand Crus found in the Côte des Blancs – Oiry, Chouilly, Cramant, Avize, and Oger (it doesn’t get much better). Again, full malolactic fermentation and hand riddling. 

Entrancing green/gold colour. The aromas move through hazelnut, fresh lemons, peaches, white jasmine. A combination of ripeness and richness, but always balanced, always refined. This wine combines the elegance of the House with the exuberance of the vintage. Great length, it just persists. Clean, refreshing and complex. A very gentle smoked note creeps in near the finish. Vibrant acidity, intensely focused. Again, a wine with such an exciting future ahead of it. Don’t be swayed by 2012 having the reputation as a Pinot year. It might well be, but that does not mean that there are not some wonderful Chardonnay-based wines. Stunning stuff. 97

A fine match, largely because it was such an amazing champagne. And there ends the Corona Gorda Crush. And even more sadly, my samples of Pol.

KBG